bluing steel with a torch

The book claims they used wait for it "boiling gasoline" not making this up to clean them. The tempering reduces the amount of martensite and thus makes the steel softer. You'll probably be fine following these instructions - you'll probably be OK driving home a little drunk, too. The actual temperature of the steel depends on the carbon content inside. I use a pickling paste. You might need two applications to clean up more deeply rusted spots. Safety is the number one priority so protect your body as much as possible. Probably the main one is the content of so-called "carbon, "I was looking at making a set of plate armor and I wanted to see how to harden the breastplate. Use hemostats to hold a cleaning patch wetted with the solution and apply in nice, long, even strokes. An ideal temperature is 180 degrees Fahrenheit but it also depends on the manual. Only 3 left in stock - order soon. This crucible was heated to 730C (1,350F) for up to 6hours (the longer the heat was applied the thicker the case hardening). Could I use stainless steel earrings that I have got? http://www.lowes.com/pd_188198-316-HG-66420_0__?productId=4764059 Youre just using stump remover to do it. You can make your own desiccant packs with kitty litter (I would recommend the unused variety). "https://www.pinterest.com/theshootingmystery/", The List Price is the suggested retail price of a new product as provided by a manufacturer, supplier, or seller. SO, DG; unless I missed it, I am assuming the torch is used separate from heating the tank/ container with the boiling solution. Use a steel tool to stir (remember the fumes). In comparison, rust, the red oxide of iron (Fe2O3), undergoes an extremely large volume change upon hydration; as a result, the oxide easily flakes off, causing the typical reddish rusting away of iron. Mea culpa. Cold blues will Youll need some shop rolls, ranging from 180 to 400 grit (typical 4-packs are 180, 240, 320 and 400 grit, in 1, 1.5 or 2. That can be a pen torch (pictured), a blow torch, a heat gun, a gas hob (which I am going use) or anything that will provide you with enough heat. NaOH will quickly and completely dissolve aluminum. "image": { We will verify and confirm your receipt within 3 working days from the date you upload it. 'Browning' is controlled red rust Fe2O3, and is also known as 'pluming' or 'plum brown'. 1/16-inch pivot wire has a circumference of ~0.2in. You can then u. se a soft brush to gently remove all the residue of the cleaning solution on the components. Its a pretty straightforward process. If the solution is still boiling vigorously, then you can expect the bluing to happen naturally. On this Wikipedia the language links are at the top of the page across from the article title. While still hot and while wearing rubber gloves rub the bluing compound Into the steel with the steel wool. "Bluing" is the process of oxidizing steel to create a durable, corrosion-resistant layer. Still, you will find that cold blues dont last. OK, now with the sights out and the trigger group off, you can put on the rust/blue remover on the barrel/action. When polishing something like the above rifle/shotgun, youve got a pretty light coat of rust, without severe pitting. I have always wondered about storage in gun soft cases or the foamed Hard cases, and humid or dry, heat and cold. Most cold blueing agents contain some selenium dioxide in them to enable to them to react at room temps. At least one of the cold bluing solutions contains selenium dioxide. It's easy to get it too hot, too quickly - especially with an O/A or oxy-propane torch. However, due to the unique qualities of stainless steel, you cant simply blue the material however way you like. Its essential to keep stirring the tank to prevent the forming of hot and cold areas. I just had my first experience rust browning a barrel. And then there is the difference between general care and storage vs available daily carried protection pistols living in a some sort of Holster (nylon or leather) , good, bad, take them out or leave them in? To remove them, you put the action/barrel into a sturdy vise (padded with soft jaws) and you use a piece of brass rod to drift the sights out. You MUST plug your barrels, gas cylinders, remove your pistons, etc. If your barrel has heavier pitting, now were into filing to remove pitting, and thats something I cant teach people in mere text. The hotter the steel, the further the oxygen can diffuse through the oxide coating, so the coating builds thicker before it protects the steel from further oxidation. Its nice when something can be re-used a time or two, especially when used in diversified ways. 500F-600F is often all that is needed and the parts can be done over and over again you just have to clean between each attempt. You are a fantastic resource for all of us here. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Then, use a pair of tongs to carry the steel to a container filled with water or vegetable, and submerge the hot metal in the liquid. Steel Though it may seem tricky at first, youll be glad to have figured it out because knowing how to blue stainless steel will come in handy from time to time. 5. Above you can see some example pictures of the colour shades that can be achieved with this techniques.Have fun doing it! "https://www.reddit.com/user/theshootingmystery" In my case I drilled/threaded the metal piece and made a holder with a threaded end. THANKS DG. It is named after the blue-black appearance of the resulting protective finish. Woodworkers doing furniture finishing will use 000 and 0000 wool, and they hate oil on their wool for rubbing down oil finishes. After the Civil War they switched to another process. How to Blue (Bluing) Steel Using Oven Or Torch and Oil Method OOMAN 2.28K subscribers Subscribe 872 112K views 4 years ago My apologies for the background How do I harden a steel hammer so that is lasts longer and is more durable? Salts. For hazzalandy: carbon content has nothing to do with the color process, it is only the temperature you heat to, and to a lesser extent, the time spent hot. I wouldnt use this bluing method for these items. If youre interested, just ask and I can provide more details. 5 years ago, I found that heating will turn steel silver ~> gold ~> violet ~> blue. just fyi, the old school method of case hardening steel is to get the piece so hot that a magnet will no longet stick to it and quickly quench it in used motor oil. Seriously, this is interesting and thank you for posting it, but I hope to never be in a position where I need to use either of these techniques! Heat the area you'd like to drill just until it starts to glow red, then allow it to cool slowly. Many older browning and bluing formulas are based on corrosive solutions (necessary to cause metal to rust), and often contain cyanide or mercury salts solutions that are especially toxic to humans. To shrink, I assumed you heated the steel plate only, to expand the hole in it. Friction, as from holster wear, quickly removes cold bluing, and also removes hot bluing, rust, or fume bluing over long periods of use. Because so many people are trying to do this sort of thing on the cheap, thats when I start thundering in my warnings about safety. You are nitre blueing here. It was left in a flannel gun case in the back of a moist closet for 25+ years. Stand on end over some paper towels to drain. Dont scrub the solution onto the gun, just run a patch that is not dripping wet down one complete run on the barrel/action in one smooth stroke. Buffing wheels have their purpose, but they take real skill to use without making a mess of guns, starting with the selection of the wheel (theres, oh, at least six types of buffing wheel), choice of type of compound, choice of grit of compound, choice of wheel speed (many buffers have only one speed, and there are some jobs where you really want a 3-phase motor on your buffer with a VFD to adjust the speed down from 1800 or 3600 RPM) and so on. The usual mistake on buffing wheels is using too coarse a compound, and then the wheel becomes quite aggressive in removing material. How do I do this? When the liquid stops bubbling, remove the metal from the container and wipe off any excess liquid. "dateModified": "2022-03-27", Are you sure you want to heat the steel to 700F in that early step? Have proper ventilation and use proper modern safety gear! It is named after the blue-black appearance of the resulting protective finish. Be careful since considerable heat might be generated in the process. This item: Special Blue Full Metal Butane Torch (Gold) - Refillable Flame Lighter- Culinary Torch - Welding Torch - Adjustable Dual Flame for Desserts, Creme Brulee, BBQ and Baking. Just let any residual matter evaporate/dry. How to Blue Stainless Steel in 5 Easy Steps: Complete Guide Heating will make the metal better in absorbing the bluing liquid. It costs an arm and a leg, and you can buy 0000 so cheaply at Wally World that it makes the acetone method worth your while. I dont have that much blueing to do in my shop, so I dont use hot salts. The parts are then boiled in distilled water, blown dry, then carded, as with rust bluing. Use a smaller toaster oven if your piece of steel fits inside. I'm trying to be positive and constructive, and think this is: for an amateur to stick a very hot torch-heated metal object into a plastic container filled with oil is simply dumb (ok, more polite: "irresponsible") at best, highly dangerous at worst. Wait for 10 15 minutes and then take out the components. Dont touch the metal with your bare hands since it could cause severe burns. 4 years ago What is your opinion of the 2 to 1 lye and potassium nitrate bluing solution? Alternitavely you can leave it in the oil bath to stabilize. -A heat source. In fact most guides no matter their material cast iron to bronze and often bearing races are installed the same way. In colloquial use, thin coatings of black oxide are often termed 'gun bluing', while heavier coatings are termed 'black oxide'. Dont drop or try to bend the steel once its removed. OK, Buffing wheels, which Im making their own break-out response from the blueing salt issue: Buffing wheels are useful things in a gun shop. }. To harden steel, start by heating the metal directly with a blow torch until it turns a cherry red color. Thats how vigorously we de-grease guns before starting blueing. 1. You will need:-2x containers (one of them preferably being metal for the oil)-oil -unleaded petrol/Acetone/Terpentine/Rubbing alcohol or any goo Submerge in water and scrape edge. Usually they would pack the parts in crucibles and surround them with leather, wood, coal,bone etcThey would heat them up to 1200F to 1500F and hold them at this temp. To temper the steel so it isn't brittle, place it in an oven heated to 375 F for 3 hours, and then it let it cool overnight. blue steel Thank you, DG! In the nitre bluing process, polished and cleaned steel parts are immersed in a bath of molten saltstypically potassium nitrate and sodium nitrate (sometimes with 9.4 grams (0.33oz) of manganese dioxide per pound of total nitrate). At the end of this heating process the crucible is removed from the oven and positioned over a bath of water with air forced through a perforated coil in the bottom of the bath. Put all the components into the tank and wait for 5 15 minutes. For the color change to be uniform you have to remove the grease, oil, paint etc or it looks blotchy. Ferrari installs valve seats in their aluminum cylinder heads via robot. Metal Finishing Guru. This is a great source that you can learn lots of information from and I'll advise it to to a handfuls of others. High temperatures and dangerous chemicals mean that a moment of carelessness can make you pay a heavy price. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/8\/81\/Harden-Steel-Step-1-Version-3.jpg\/v4-460px-Harden-Steel-Step-1-Version-3.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/8\/81\/Harden-Steel-Step-1-Version-3.jpg\/aid1214287-v4-728px-Harden-Steel-Step-1-Version-3.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"